Belsh, Albania: The Land of 84 Lakes

Belsh, Albania: The Land of 84 Lakes, Complete 2026 Travel Guide

Belsh is a small town in the Dumre plateau of central Albania, in Elbasan County, about 60 km south of Tirana and roughly an hour by road, sitting directly on the route between the capital and Berat. Known locally as the "city of 84 lakes," it's ringed by an unusual concentration of small natural lakes formed across the rolling Dumrea countryside, most easily explored around Belsh Lake itself, along with the nearby villages of Seferan and Merhoja. Most travellers visit as a half-day stop, either as a coffee and photo break en route between Tirana and Berat, or as a slower, standalone half-day of walking, cycling, and lakeside lunch for those who want to see a side of Albania far removed from its beaches and museum cities. Best months: April to June and September, for mild weather and green surroundings.

Why Belsh belongs on your Albania itinerary

Most travellers encounter Belsh by accident, as a quick stop on the drive from Tirana to Berat, and then wish they'd budgeted more time. This small municipality sits in the middle of the Dumre plateau, a landscape defined by dozens of small natural lakes scattered across gentle hills, olive groves, and farmland, a genuinely different Albania from the coastline or the Ottoman old towns that usually dominate an itinerary. It's the kind of place with a rich Illyrian history but no single must-see monument, which is exactly the point: the appeal here is unhurried walking, cycling, and lakeside meals rather than ticking off a list of sights.

Belsh has also become something of a working example of small-scale sustainable tourism in Albania, with a growing lakeside promenade, bike lanes, and an emerging agrotourism scene built around local products like saffron and olive oil. For travellers building a Tirana-to-Berat route, Belsh is the natural, easy stop to break up the drive, and for those with a full day to spare, it rewards a slower, more deliberate visit than most people give it.

Belsh Lake and the lakeside promenade

Belsh Lake sits at the heart of the town and is the obvious starting point for any visit. A lakeside promenade runs along its shore, popular for sunset walks, coffee, and simply taking in the view, and it's where most of the town's low-key social life happens in the evenings. A narrow but well-maintained bike track now runs around the entire perimeter of the lake, an easy, unhurried loop that suits casual cyclists rather than serious riders, small enough not to be tiring but long enough to work up an appetite.

For a short, novel outing on the water itself, a small blue boat operates from the town centre most weekends and throughout the summer season, offering brief rides around the lake for a modest fee, a simple but memorable way to see Belsh from the water.

Seferan and Merhoja: the neighbouring lakes and a local legend

A short drive or bike ride from the centre, two nearby villages round out the classic Belsh day.

Seferan, about 1.5 miles (3 km) from central Belsh, has its own lake of the same name, set among pine trees and bushes with a circuit road built around it for longer walks. The village carries a local legend tied to Aphrodite (Aferdita in Albanian), said to have descended on the lake each year to select the most beautiful young man in the area; a statue of the goddess now stands by the water in her honour, and when the lake dried up during a drought in 1974, locals reportedly found terracotta offerings that had been left for her over the years.

Merhoja Lake, about five minutes by car south of Seferan, has the clearest water of the whole Dumrea lake district, and both fishing and swimming are permitted here. A restaurant sits close to the shore, serving local cuisine with an unbroken lake view, a natural lunch stop for a half-day exploring the area.

Locals note that with 84 recorded lakes across the wider Dumrea region, no visitor is expected to see them all, two or three, easily reached by car, bicycle, or on foot from Belsh itself, is enough to get a proper feel for the landscape.

What to eat in Belsh

Freshwater fish from the Dumrea lakes is the dish to try here, fresh, simply prepared, and a genuine point of local pride. Beyond the fish, look for bugaçe, a local pastry, alongside olive oil and, increasingly, saffron, cultivated locally under the "Zafferano di Dumre" label, one of Albania's better-known small agribusiness success stories and now a feature on menus across the area, including saffron-infused dishes and even a local saffron brandy. Restaurants along the Belsh promenade and by the shore at Merhoja are the best settings for a relaxed lakeside meal.

Best time to visit Belsh

April–June: mild temperatures and green countryside, ideal conditions for the lakeside walks and cycling that make up most of a Belsh visit.

July–August: warm and generally quiet compared to Albania's coastal destinations, since Belsh isn't a beach town, this is a comfortable, uncrowded season to visit, though midday heat can make longer cycling loops more tiring.

September: warm, clear light and thinner crowds even than the already-quiet summer months, a strong choice for a relaxed lakeside visit.

October–March: quieter still, with cooler weather and fewer boat rides or outdoor activities running, but the promenade and surrounding countryside remain open and peaceful for travellers who don't mind a cooler visit.

How to get to Belsh

From Tirana: about 60 km, roughly an hour by car, sitting directly on the route to Berat, making it an easy, natural stop rather than a detour. Furgons (privately operated minibuses) run from Tirana to Belsh, though schedules are informal and often depart only once full, so a private transfer or self-driven car is the more reliable option.

From Berat: about 45 minutes to an hour, the other natural end of the same Tirana-Belsh-Berat route, meaning Belsh works equally well as a stop in either direction.

From Elbasan: a short drive, with furgons also running between the two towns.

Getting around: Belsh's compact centre and lakeside promenade are easily explored on foot or by bike, but a car or taxi is needed to properly reach Seferan, Merhoja, and the wider Dumrea lake district, since these smaller villages have limited public transport connections.

Where to stay in Belsh

Belsh is overwhelmingly visited as a day trip or half-day stop rather than an overnight base, and most travellers continue on to Tirana or Berat, both of which offer a far wider range of accommodation. That said, a small and growing number of guesthouses and agrotourism farms in the surrounding countryside now offer overnight stays centred on olive harvesting, traditional cooking, and lakeside tranquillity, worth considering for travellers who want to slow down and experience rural Dumrea life rather than simply pass through.

How long do you need in Belsh?

A quick stop: 30 minutes to an hour is enough for a coffee and a walk along the promenade if you're passing through between Tirana and Berat.

Half a day: two to three hours lets you cycle the loop around Belsh Lake, visit Seferan for the Aphrodite legend, and have lunch by the water at Merhoja.

A full day: add a boat ride on Belsh Lake, more time exploring the wider Dumrea countryside, and an unhurried, agrotourism-style visit to a local farm or saffron producer.

Plan your trip to Belsh

We build Belsh into private and small-group itineraries year-round as an easy, scenic stop between Tirana and Berat, licensed local guides, lakeside lunch stops, cycling around Belsh Lake, and combined routing with Berat's Old Town and Castle. [Browse our Albania tours] · [See Berat hotels] · [Request a custom itinerary]

Belsh FAQ

Is Belsh worth visiting?

Yes, especially as a stop between Tirana and Berat. Belsh offers an unusual concentration of small natural lakes, a relaxed lakeside promenade, cycling trails, and genuinely authentic rural Albanian food, a distinctly different experience from the country's coastal and Ottoman old-town destinations.

What is Belsh known for?

Belsh is known as the "city of 84 lakes," a small town in the Dumre plateau surrounded by natural lakes, most notably Belsh Lake, Seferan Lake, and Merhoja Lake, and for its lakeside promenade, cycling trails, and local saffron and olive oil production.

How far is Belsh from Tirana?

About 60 km, roughly an hour by car, sitting directly on the road between Tirana and Berat.

Can you visit Belsh as a day trip?

Yes, and it's most commonly visited that way, either as a brief coffee stop between Tirana and Berat or as a standalone half-day trip focused on the lakes, cycling, and a lakeside lunch.

Can you swim or fish in the lakes around Belsh?

Yes, at some of them. Merhoja Lake, known for having the clearest water in the area, allows both swimming and fishing, and a restaurant sits close to its shore. Belsh Lake itself is more geared toward walking, cycling, and short boat rides than swimming.

What is the best time to visit Belsh?

April to June and September, for mild weather and comfortable conditions for walking and cycling around the lakes. Summer is quieter here than at Albania's coastal destinations, since Belsh isn't a beach town.

Do you need a car to visit Belsh?

A car or private transfer is the most practical option. Belsh's own centre and lake are walkable, but reaching the wider Dumrea lake district, including Seferan and Merhoja, is far easier with your own transport, since furgon schedules to the surrounding villages are limited and informal.

Is Belsh safe for tourists?

Yes. Belsh is a small, calm, family-oriented town with low crime rates. The main practical considerations are carrying cash, since many local shops and cafés prefer lekë, and wearing comfortable shoes for the lakeside walks and countryside trails.